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· Fashion · · T. Joana Rebelo

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto

The French Maison’s muse

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The Victoria & Albert Museum (V & A) in London is preparing for a new exhibition that it is about to put on the agenda. The key words are Chanel and Gabrielle Coco Chanel, and you can expect a retrospective of the history of both of them. 
Retracing the iconic luxury brand’s journey during the lifetime of founder and creator Coco, the first exhibition will be presented when the leaves are falling. The timeline runs from the first hat shop in Paris, in 1910, to the year of Gabrielle’s death in 1971. Divided into eight chapters, the exhibition explores the designer’s universe by means of 180 looks, to which cosmetics, perfumes, jewellery and accessories are added. Only the most iconic items are included in the collection, and maybe the No.5 perfume and the 2.55 handbag will be there for you to enjoy. 
If she were reading this to us, Gabrielle would point out: «I don’t create fashion. I am fashion,» words that are still associated with her today. The truth is that she wasn’t lying when she said this. Trends come and go and reputations are built and destroyed, but Chanel still remains untouchable at the top of the haute couture hierarchy, with its name known all over the world. More than a style benchmark, the French brand is a phenomenon of female emancipation. Since its creation over 100 years ago, it has liberated women from conventional styles dictated by the times. Garments that were a hardship for the female population were cast aside; for example, corsets, and if it is now elegant to wear a black dress combined with flat shoes, this is largely thanks to Chanel.

Travel the Chanel universe through 180 looks
P. Rights Reserved
Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Bronislava Nijinska and Leon Woizikowsky after the first performance of "Le train bleu" in Britain, at the coliseum theatre London, 1924
Between freedom and tradition, the designer opted for the first, as you can see from the creations on display at the V & A South Kensington until next year. There will also be pieces designed for celebrities, such as those worn by actresses Marlene Dietrich and Lauren Bacall. A special feature will be tweed, the English fabric that was to cause a stir in the label’s collections, being worn by the likes of Princess Diana, Jacqueline Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor. It was Gabrielle who introduced the pearl mix and introduced the world to a geometric bottle with a simple monochrome label, which became one of the most iconic perfumes of all time.  Hers was an epic journey and that’s why Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is a true tribute to the designer who swept through the ages with her disruptive style. Having lost her mother at the age of six, Coco learnt to sew in an orphanage and, after pursuing a career as a singer, she decided to set up a hat shop. The rest... is history, which will be on show in London from September 16 to February 26, 2024 at the art and design museum whose name is guaranteed to be one of the most famous in the world. Created by Palais Galliera, the exhibition is open from 10.00 am until 5.45 pm, except on Fridays when the opening hours are extended to 10.00 pm. At around €5 per ticket, embark on a journey to the essence of fashion. 
Gabrielle Chanel, Dress, Cotton Velvet, 1932
P. Nicholas Alan Cope
Gabrielle Chanel, Dress, Cotton Velvet, 1932
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
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Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Gabrielle Chanel, Costumes for "Le train bleu", hand-knitted wool, 1924
P. Nicholas Alan Cope
Gabrielle Chanel, Costumes for "Le train bleu", hand-knitted wool, 1924
Joana Rebelo
T. Joana Rebelo
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